Know Your Peptides

Confused by Peptides?? Read this Medica Labs guide

Seems like there’s a new designer peptide every month. These effective anti-aging ingredients are actually active chains of amino acids that make up proteins. Proteins are involved in nearly every process within cells, regulating all bodily functions. They do this by behaving as dispatcher signaling cells that tell other cells what to do, such as make collagen. If you are finding it hard to keep track, then here’s my guide to the latest and greatest peptides.

Acetyl octapeptide-3 This is an elongation of Argireline that is supposed to work more effectively at blocking the SNARE complex. It is classified as a neuropeptide

Acetyl hexapeptide-37 Boosts the performance of aquaporin 3 (AQP3), which helps water move through the layers of the epidermis. It helps out with collagen I synthesis as well.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-22 Increases heat shock protein (HSP70) levels in the skin, which enhances stress tolerance and prevents damage.

Argireline The first of the neuropeptides. To form a muscle contraction, acetylcholine (ACh) is needed and Argireline blocks its release.

Copper peptides Trace copper and amino acids. Boosts collagen production and hair growth.

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate Another neuropeptide and it works by reducing sodium (Na+) uptake to relax the muscle contraction and soften wrinkle formation.

Hexapeptide-11 Upregulates five key areas: transmembrane proteins, growth factors, matrix proteins, skin lipid development and cell stress.

Matrixyl 3000 The combination of two peptides - palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3. Regulates cell activities involved in the renewal of Collagen I, fibronectin and hyaluronic acid. They are also supposed to reduce redness by eliminating bilirubin.

Neuropeptides See Argireline, Acetyl octapeptide-3, Dipeptide diaminobutyrolyl benzylamide diacetate .

Oligopeptide-68 A sophisticated peptide that inhibits the regulator of melanogenic enzymes, tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2. It is supposed to be better at skin lightening than arbutin and vitamin C.

Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyloyl hydro-xythreonline Stimulates laminin V, collagen IV, VII, XVII and integrin

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 See Matrixyl 3000

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 Activates Collagen I production via the growth factor TGF-ß

Palmitoyl oligopeptide See Matrixyl 3000

Tetrapeptide 17 (Tego Pep 4-17) Boosts elasticity.

Tetrapeptide-38 (TEGO Pep 4-Even) This can eliminate dark spots and alleviate melasma.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3 This a subset of Tripeptide 5 (see below) and works in the same way. Find it in BRAD Biophotonic Sublime Youth Creator Radiance Concentrate ($125), an interesting and effective product that also has a proprietary retinol complex.

Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 (TT2) Promotes elastin to reduce sagging.

Tripeptide-5 This peptide activates an epidermal growth factor (TGF-beta) that stimulates collagen in the skin. I have seen claims that in-vitro tests showed that tripeptide-5 has better collagen-building capacity than topically applied TGF-beta—by 119%.

Uplevity Tetrapeptide-2 induces the expression of fibulin 5 and lysyl oxidase-like 1. The latter is a gene that catalyses the first step in the formation of crosslinks in collagens and elastin. Used to firm the eyelid.

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